We are loving the new dock that has been setup on the Souris River south of Oxbow! Such a great addition to our community! 😎👍
I’ve been a macro photography fan forever. It’s an awesome frontier of photography with literally limitless options for creativity and subject matter. I’ve got the 105mm Micro Nikkor f/2.8 and it’s been a phenomenal workhorse of a lens, especially when paired on the D800 (or any newer super-mega-pretzel sensor). One thing that was missing from my macro photography was the ability to stack images and make one ultra-sharp, hyper-focal image. When you’re shooting macro, it’s impossible to get everything in focus the way you want even stopped way down to f/7Billion.
Enter the wonders of Photoshop. I never used to use it. I had a stand alone version Lightroom that I kept using forever because I didn’t want to move to Adobe’s
RIPOFF subscription system. However, when I upgraded to Mac OS X Catalina (the WORST version of Apple software I’ve ever used and my biggest regret in computing), it upgraded to only 64-bit software so my old 32-bit version of Lightroom was no good no mo’. I was forced to upgrade to the subscription from Adobe and I got Photoshop for the first time. I had always used open source software GIMP which was great, but it didn’t have the auto-magic image stacking ability like Photoshop does. Having a computer do all the layer masking stuff for you is the best thing ever.
There’s lots of elaborate guides on how to do this on the internet but here’s how I did it. You bulk edit your macro photos in Lightroom to normalize colours and whatever else you want, then:
- Export the files to full-size JPEG
- In Photoshop, go up to the File menu in the Menu Bar, choose Scripts, then choose Load Files into Stack.
- In the Load Layers dialog box, set Use to Files, then click Browse. Navigate to your images on your computer, select them and click Open.
- Back in the Load Layers dialog box, select Attempt to Automatically Align Source Images, then click OK.
- In the Layers panel, click on the top layer, then Shift-click on the bottom layer to select all layers.
- Go up to the Edit menu in the Menu Bar and choose Auto-Blend Layers.
- Crop the image with the Crop Tool to remove problem areas around the edges.
And that’s it! You get a glorious product in the end that is sharp and detailed all the way through your intendedly sharp region of the photo. It’s pretty slick.
So that’s it. If you ever wondered how people got those incredibly sharp and detailed macro photos, this is how. I always remember seeing macro photos of bugs that were razor sharp all the way through and wondering what manner of sorcery it was! But when you look up the magician’s sleeve, it’s not that tricksy after all. 😎
Crazy colours and textures in this wild storm!
Went outside and looked up and saw this incredible halo! I don’t know anything more about it than that! That and 16mm on a full frame isn’t enough to capture it all. Probably need a fisheye. 😎
So here’s a bit of nerdy post. In the midst of Corona-Mania-2019, I managed to run out and nab a photo of the super moon on April 7. I used the same lens for both of these photos, the veritable 70-200 f/4 Nikkor. On the left is it on a full frame, 36MP Nikon D800 camera. On the right it is on the 24MP Fuji X-Pro2 with an adaptor. Fuji is a crop sensor so you get the effective extra reach of the lens. But it is interesting how the fuji seems to capture more detail.
Some of the increased acuity comes from Lightroom’s rendering of Fuji RAW files. The dreaded “wormy” details show up as noise in the image which does have the effect of making it look sharper. This is a side effect of how Adobe render’s the X-Trans sensor images. They have made gains to correct it with Adobe Camera RAW but it’s still present to my eye.
The Nikon file doesn’t have the wormy detail. But as a result it doesn’t look quite as sharp.
This discussion is taking place at 300% – which is stupid. Pixel peeping this close is a thing nobody really does except camera nerds. And maybe u if you’re still reading! 😂
So there’s the Pink Super Moon on two cameras with the same lens. If you’ve ever wondered why this is called a “Pink” super moon or a Wolf moon, check out this article. The Pink moon has the added blessing of calculating the date of Easter. 😎 🙏
Well, the main site is back in action after some serious weirdness. Still not exactly sure what happened. But I had to trash and re-upload the entire site. UGGG! Major pain. But at least the gallery is back in the saddle! 😎👍
It appears my portfolio website at http://www.schultzphoto.ca has been hacked. I’m working with my web host to resolve the issue. Not sure exactly what has occurred as I’m using randomized pass-phrases with loads of entropy. Hopefully we will get to the bottom of it soon!
There were glorious sundogs this evening.
I was changing a poopy diaper.
I was too late.
The good ol’ skatin’ rink! There are not many more iconic small town venues. We had the extended family down for a couple days and took part in the public skating. Our rink upgraded their lighting from horrid barf green sodium vapour to glorious LEDs which is awesome x 100000000. However, I still shot black and white in a street photography style because I like it. Before, you used to have to shoot B&W to get rid of the putrid lighting. But now, we have the freedom to do it for fun! 😎
I shot this all with the FujiFilm XPro2 and the beloved 35mm f/2 lens. I shot JPEGs and locked them into my ultra contrasty black and white TRI-X film simulation. Here’s the settings:
I did cheat and shoot a bit of colour for the baby and the water tower which was bathed in glorious golden light. But that’s our little secret! 😉
Wishing all my clients, friends and family a very Merry Christmas and a wonderful 2020!
For unto you is born this day in the city of David a Savior, who is Christ the Lord!Luke 2:11
Just a couple of quick sunset pics tonight with the Fuji XPro-2 and the 90mm f2. I dig the super saturated Velvia look in bleak winter! 😎