We shot a winter wedding last weekend. Fortunately the freezing rain that was forecast didn’t show up. Instead we had some snowy and blustery cold conditions to contend with. I’ll do a later post with some images from that wedding because it as a lot of fun and the bride chose an amazing venue to do some of the wedding party photos.
It was in the Virdin Auditorium. What an amazing location! We did a bunch of fun group things and then I asked if the backdrop could be brought down and the theatrical lights be used to light a portrait of the bride. I knew I wanted to try the V3 in this setting with the 18.5mm lens to see how it would hold up. It was challenging light for the camera to balance in that it was only lit by CTB and Magenta gelled spot lights.
I thought the camera did amazingly well. This photo is straight from camera, neutral picture control JPG. The colour tones are pleasing and rich. Just for fun, I shot the same setup with my Nikon Df & 50mm 1.8G lens for comparison:
It’s definitely not possible to do an “apples-to-apples” comparison here but it gives you an idea of what the Nikon V3 can do contrasted with a $3000.00 DSLR setup. There is more tonality and colour nuance captured by the Full Frame DSLR sensor, but to be honest, the V3 image is more contrasty which I prefer for the overall look of this photo. Also, the Df at 1.8 is bokelicious wonderland where the V3 keeps pretty much everything in focus at 1.8.
Here are some ~100% crops to see how the V3 holds up at 1600 ISO. The Df is at 800 ISO here just for comparison purposes.
You can see that the V3 detail is noticeably less than the Df, which is expected due to sensor size. But, it handles the noise amazingly well. Her eyelashes are discernible. Her hair is beginning to get a bit mottled together but to my eye, it’s still incredibly good! I’m impressed with the performance!
Here is one more unedited straight from camera JPG. I’m blown away by the skin tones here. They are very pleasing and creamy. The colour reproduction is really quite good as well. This scene has a metric tonne of white in it and the nuance between the snow, the shady snow, the dress, the shirt and the flowers is discernible.
Overall, it’s impressive image quality for a small CX sensor. If I was a person looking to upgrade from a camera phone camera or point and shoot but didn’t want to lug around a big DSLR, the Nikon 1 V3 would totally fit the bill. 😎
Our weather has finally, FINALLY stopped being nasty/scary/oppressive/cold/miserable. And, we had a clear night! I’ve been dying to try out the Nikon Df’s lowlight awesomeness with the 24mm AF-S 1.4G lens. They work really nice together. I was actually able to shoot at very low ISO (kind of defeating the purpose of the experiment. LOL) 😀 But I decided to throw a little light painting in for good luck. Just a wee smidgeon of light from my iPod. Cool little accent. The final EXIF stats were: ISO 800 24mm f2.8 20sec. The only reason for this shutter speed was to give me time to get out into the frame.
I give you the “StarScape Selfie” 😎
I discovered a way cool trick that helps out tremendously when shooting in Manual mode or even in Aperture mode. Basically it is using auto ISO to help you freeze action at a sports game or if you are shooting handheld in low-light conditions, it prevents the camera from dropping below a set shutter speed (AKA no more blurry images).
If you’re outside with lots of light, this doesn’t matter as much. But like I said, for inside/low light it’s the bomb. In the ISO sensitivity settings menu, you can control the maximum ISO you want, say 1600. And, you can control the minimum shutter speed you want too. So for sports with super fast action, lock this in at 1/1000 or if you’re shooting your 50mm prime on your DX body, lock it in at 1/100. That way you can adjust your aperture to whatever you want and the shutter speed never drops below your minimum amount. The camera automagically calculates the proper ISO to make your exposure work out.
What’s way cool is that the camera won’t just jump full stops of ISO (like 200 to 400) it will do crazy stuff like ISO 273 – a setting you couldn’t choose to do even if you wanted to!
It’s really cool because when you move to different shooting spots or the natural light levels change all around you, you’re still nailing your exposures every time. Slick hey?
Credit for this trick goes to Scott Kelby and his Digital Photography Book 3 p.146.
Two hours in the rink goes super fast when you’re taking pics. Small town hockey arenas are cold and rustic. Small town hockey photos are even trickier! 😉 The white balance is crazy. There are no port holes to shoot through so you have to shoot through glass or shoot over top of it. ISOs are ridiculously high. But it’s still fun. I went tonight and nabbed some shots of the Pee Wee game between the Oxbow Huskies & the Carlyle Cougars. I had to really process them in post to get a pleasing white balance (3362 in case you’re wondering) and then crank it up another notch with NIK’s Color eFex Pro (Pro Contrast). This seemed to keep the whites white and the blacks black. It works for me! 2.8 glass would have come in handy for tonight’s shoot but the old 70-300 VR & 16-85mm VR did an alright job. If you have to shoot through glass/plexiglass, the best thing you can do is take off your lens hood & your filter and put your camera lens right on the glass. It minimizes distortion! 🙂