ATTENTION: PHOTO NERD POST – if this is not you, please move aside. 😎
In my previous post on this, I had Nikon’s Creative Lighting System working flawlessly with my LumoPro 180s. But then, all of a sudden it didn’t work anymore in the S2-3 slave mode. I was buffaloed once again. So, I determined to figure out why (in my home office, not during a wedding shoot when it was critical. Doh.). 😉 So anyways, I tried all the configurations of Nikon’s CLS system triggering from an SU-800 commander on camera. Here’s what I came up with. The LP180s will work with all the configurations, they just have to be set in the appropriate slave mode as per your CLS configuration. I made up a cheat sheet to keep with you. Feel free to download and share it as you wish. Cheers! 😀
ADDENDUM EDIT: I’ve had an anonymous commenter (H. Simpson, no wait, that’s too obvious, Homer S.) inquire about what the settings would be for CLS combinations not listed in the chart – precisely a BC group. Given that Nikon’s CLS system makes the most sense when used as A Group for Key, B Group for Fill and C Group for Accent/Kicker lights, a BC Group configuration doesn’t make any sense at all ever. Just use an AB Group in the S2-2 setting, it’s accomplishing the same thing as 2 setting group like BC.
This is a total Photo Nerd Post. If that applies to you, please read on :cool:.
So I was doing an advertising campaign shoot yesterday and I decided it was high time to try out my new LumoPro LP180 flashes on a real job. I was shooting a high key setup that required 4 flashes to do. I setup my Nikon SBs as key and backlights and I wanted to use the LP180 as a kicker.
So I set it up and took some test shots. Nothing worked. It was like the LP180 was killing all the other flashes’ signals. So I turned it off, everything worked perfectly. Weird. 😈 Then I remember that I must have the slave mode in the wrong setting. So I changed it and still the setup wouldn’t work. I was totally buffaloed. I was able to borrow an SB-910 to help me finish the shoot but when I got home, I had to figure out what the heck was going on. I setup the flashes and started running through the slave mode settings on the LP-180. When I got to S2-3, thats when the magic happened. Everything was working perfectly and my two LP180s were triggering just fine within the Nikon CLS. I was using my SU-800 commander remote which I love, but I tested it also with the pop up flash on camera. Worked perfectly. So, if you shoot Nikon CLS and want to use the awesome LumoPro LP180 flash alongside your Nikon kit, fear not! It works flawlessly in the S2-3 slave configuration. Cheers! 😎
OK, this one is for the photo geeks out there who are 1) cheap and 2) handy. Like everything in Photography, gear is expensive. Even things that shouldn’t be all too often break the bank. You should spend money on lenses and cameras and save cash on other stuff. Case in point: a triflash bracket. To buy one retail will set you back between $73 to $169. That’s crazy!! You could do that. OR you could spend less than $30 and make one yourself that is on par with the $119 dollar Joe McNally version. It’s a no brainer to me. 😀 Check out the vid.
Here are some sample shots I took using the bracket. They’re in the YouTube vid but I provide them here also to check out the awesome power and options available to you when you gang up your hotshoe flashes. You can overpower the sun or do a nice ambient/flash mix all without taxing the living heck out of one flash unit. Sweet! 😎